The Sagulator Even with correct brackets make sure it doesn't sag! Remember edgeband (or using a strip of wood on the edge of the shelf) can have a large impact on the load capability. I have listed a few tools that can help you determine the width span and sizing of the shelves: Here is the technical consideration of MDF and composite shelf. Since I don't know the exact numbers (such as load metal thickness etc) the best i can do is point you to some sources that can help you solve the matter. Even if it acts as one unit, as correctly mentioned above a second shear point is created at the edge of the bracket and the shelf. So it is important to know if the bracket is attached to the shelf as this will cause it to act in many respects as one unit. A second bending moment/point is created between the shelf and the bracket. Things become more complicated as the shelf extends beyond the end of the bracket. The maximum shear force would be at the bracket base (thus why brackets are larger at the base). The max load for bending moment would be as if all the weight it focused on the tip of the bracket. 16 Pack L11' x H 8' Black Heavy Duty Shelf Brackets with Screws Metal Shelf Brackets Shelf Support Angle Brackets for Shelves L Brackets Heavy Duty Floating Shelf Brackets. When a bracket extends to edge of the shelf then the shelf itself and it's load can be treated as having a well established load limit. Then there is the moment forces, which is more of turning/twisting force. There is the straight downward force that is normally called the shear force. There are two basic forces at play in a bracket system. Also where the load is place will be become a more important factor at play. Using the brackets would change the load they could carry. I am assuming that since you said brackets for 11" shelves, that means the brackets are "designed" for 11" shelves and that they in themselves are not 11" long. To answer your question though, "yes and no" the brackets for the 11" shelves would work up to a point. If you have some kind of paneling, you'll want to anchor directly to studs behind. Same with a wood finished wall (such as v-match pine). If your walls are a concrete block (like many student dormitories here in the U.S.) you'll be fine. Build extra storage space by adding shelving with our range of shelf brackets at Toolstation. If you put several anchors into the wall for each rail, you'll have plenty of weight bearing capability. Are your walls drywall? If so, can you sink both brackets into studs behind the drywall? If you can, no worries about weight, if you can't hit then most anchor systems are going to be rated for 75-125 lbs(about 34-57 kilograms) for 5/8" drywall (1.5cm). You haven't mentioned what you're attaching the brackets to. However, you have one big unanswered question. The grain of the wood will be perpendicular to the brackets, which would give you a chance to break the wood out at the end, but how much weight can you really put on the last 3 3/8"? Certainly it's not ideal, but I don't know what you have for hardware stores in Israel. If the shelf you're putting up is a solid wood shelf and not particle board, an 11" bracket will be fine (assuming it's a metal bracket).
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